We arrived at his house, which sits right on the edge of Iona Lake, at around dusk.  He invited Jill and I inside, and we talked like it hadn’t been years since we really connected.  It’s funny how food and drink will induce that into happening.  It wasn’t long before Dixon started preparing dinner.  It was to be a multi-course affair, nothing too crazy, just a hot salad followed by filet mignon and dessert.  Simple and satisfying.

Romaine hearts were removed from the fridge and onto a cutting board, where they were cut into half the long way, stem to stern.  Like an accomplished dinner host, Dixon continued conversing as he prepared the first course, casually carrying on conversation as he heated up a cast iron pan and drizzled olive oil onto the cut sides of the lettuce.  Salt and pepper were sprinkled on top and when Dixon waved his hand over the pan to find the proper heat level, he gingerly placed the cut side of each head of lettuce down onto the surface of the pan.

I had never seen anything like this before, but Dixon said he had done it many times before and it had become a regular in his repertoire.  I was certainly curious to see how it would turn out.

As the romaine sizzled in the pan and Dixon got out plates and silverware, I sliced into a loaf of olive foccacia that I had brought from the bakery.  We each took a few slices and savored the olivey bouquet while we chewed hungrily on the yeasty pieces of Italian flatbread.

Before long, the romaine was picked up to inspect and the bottoms were determined to be a satisfactory caramelized color.  Dixon placed each half-head of lettuce on three plates with the cooked side up, where they teased us with their glistening caramelized color.  They smelled fantastic too, and as I inspected my salad, the dressing was brought out of the fridge… a spoonful of fresh blue cheese dressing from Pegasus Diner in Malaga (Dixon’s favorite) was drizzled on each salad.  Little bits of crispy bacon finished the dish, and I must say, it looked amazing.

Not only did it look amazing, it tasted it as well.  The lettuce was partially cooked (normally you cook heartier greens, but why not lettuce?) and the flavors of the blue cheese and bacon didn’t overpower.  It was surprisingly satisfying, and I’m going to have to follow suit and include this in my repertoire.  So easy and so delicious.

Next up was the steak, which Dixon had picked up earlier in the day.  The steaks were coated in black peppercorns (that Dixon had just crushed in a mortar and pestle) and were then placed into the hot pan.  They sizzled with abandon, and there they sat until being flipped a few minutes later.  After the rich smell of browning meat filled the kitchen, the filets were placed into the oven to finish cooking.  Dixon was not done yet though.

A shot of brandy appeared and with the flair of a professional, Dixon quickly poured the shot into the pan to deglaze the little crusty bits of goodness where it erupted in flames with a big ‘whoosh!’

A little cream, some stock and a few minutes of reducing created the perfect sauce to accompany the steaks.  Dixon was feeling a little adventurous though and had the desire to get out of his comfort zone, so he busted out a can of crabmeat.  He popped the lid and added a few large spoonfuls to the sauce to heat through.  As if this entrée couldn’t get more decadent, the crabmeat put it over the top.

The steaks were perfectly cooked, no kidding, and the crabmeat peppercorn sauce was ridiculously good.  I didn’t know he had it in him!  Some potato gratin and more bread finished off the dish and I couldn’t help but sop up the remaining sauce from the plate with my bread.  Yum…

Fresh homemade root beer that a friend had given us provided the libation for dinner, and the bubbly, sweet, herby soda countered the spicy, rich dinner.  It was lovely.  We looked out of the kitchen, out of the porch and over the lake, which by this time had the feel of a movie set with the full moon shimmering on the surface of the water.  Fresh pie made from local peaches, blackberries and blueberries completed our meal and we chatted for a while longer.

There’s nothing like the promise of good food and good company to bring old friends together again.  If you haven’t had an old friend over for dinner lately, I suggest you look up their number on your phone, give them a call and invite them over for a shared meal… it’s the best way to reconnect.

I wrote a while back about my love of Indian food.  It’s definitely in my top three favorite ethnic cuisines (along with Mexican and Italian), but ever since my favorite Indian restaurant in Voorhees closed, I haven’t had it (aside from my attempting to make tikka masala once).  So when I pulled up to the house on Saturday, cakes in tow, I was pleased to see two women in colorful sari’s working the grill.  I immediately wondered what was cooking, secretly hoping that it wasn’t hot dogs and hamburgers, but something a little more exotic.

As I walked up, I could see that bluish white smoke was billowing out of the grill past bright orange cuts of chicken.  That color signified to me that it was no ordinary chicken cooking… it was tandori chicken.  How exciting.  Of course, to be fair, tandori chicken is cooked in a tandori oven, this was the Americanized version, a tandori-style chicken.  From what I know, tandori chicken is typically marinated in different spices and yogurt and the color comes from the spices that are used.  These particular drumsticks looked awesome.

On the side of the grill was a pot of heated oil ready to deep-fry something yummy.  I had to get these cakes inside though, so one of the sari-clad women took me in the house and showed me where to place the cakes.  The house was cool, a sharp contrast to the extreme heat and humidity outside, and it was a welcome relief to be in there while a boy of about ten found the guest that ordered the cakes.

I couldn’t help but notice that the kitchen was loaded with foods laid out on the center island.  All were covered with aluminum foil, and my mind could only imagine at what was inside each container.  On the dining room table, more dishes were laid out, all covered as well.  I was honestly getting jealous thinking about all that food, wishing that I could invite myself over later to join the party and to chow down at this Indian feast!

I chatted with another woman who wore a beautiful multi-colored sari about the food and about the celebration that would commence soon.  I told her about living in San Francisco and eating at Naan n’ Curry several times a week, and how Spice Corner closed in Voorhees.  She told me about Feathers in English Creek and suggested that I check it out sometime.  She was very pleasant to talk with, and I lamented the fact that Vineland is without an Indian restaurant.  Oh well, I thought, it would be a while before the spicy lure of Indian cuisine would pass my lips again.

After a few minutes, the guest that ordered the cake was found and came into the kitchen.  She checked the cakes out and seemed pleased with them, and then casually offered me some food.  Did I hear that right?  Really?  She told me that my wife had told her several weeks ago about our love of Indian cuisine, and so she insisted that I take some back to the bakery!  She then excused herself to finish her preparations and said that the other woman would take care of me.  I probably looked silly with the grin I must have had on my face…

Some sort of curried chicken was ladled into a container for me.  In another container, a snack food called chaat was spooned into another container.  Fried dough pieces went in first, followed by chickpeas, chopped onions, cilantro, cooked potato pieces, yogurt sauce, coriander chutney, and a dark reddish/brown tamarind sauce.  Even the matriarch of the house got in on the act, making sure I had all the components and pulling stuff out of the fridge.  This mixture was stirred and on the top went some spicy green chilies (at my request) and a pinch of garam masala, as they explained, for a little kick.  Yay!  I was so excited and she even sent me outside with a spoon and napkin so I could start eating in the car.

As I left, the two women at the grill insisted upon sending me out with food as well.  The pot of oil had fritters of hard-boiled eggs and mint leaves in a curried batter.  One was placed on a napkin for me, as were two drumsticks of the tandori-style chicken.  A few pieces of battered, fried fish were given to me as well.  I felt like a kid in a candy shop.

In the car, at the end of the driveway, I ate the fritter, which was sublime.  Hot and crispy, with a touch of spice and heady curry flavor pleased my palate.  I popped a few pieces of the fish into my mouth next, and the soft breading hinted of lemon and finished with a kick of spice.  I dug into the curried chicken, but only took one bite because it was too messy for the car, but boy oh boy was it a good bite.

My wife is lucky that I love her so much, because I saved the rest to share with her.  Back at the bakery, the two of our devoured it with embarrassing enthusiasm.  It was all so good, and it made us genuinely happy to be eating homemade Indian food.  To be treated to these goodies by guests of the bakery was really special, and to the family that did the treating, thank you!  I know I’ve said it before, but I love the diversity of cultures in Vineland, it really is a special place full of special people.

During the time that we were closed, strawberry season came and went and so we were forced to cancel our annual strawberry festival.  The bakery did reopen for blueberry season though, and I’m been consuming my fair share of the delicious little fruits that New Jersey is so proud of growing.

This past Friday evening, The Sweet Life Bakery attended the Hammonton farmers market.  Since there was a blueberry theme that evening at the inaugural market, we planned an all-blueberry menu.  Earlier in the week, we got our first delivery of fresh Jersey blueberries and Brittany went to work preparing them into many different blueberry desserts.

On the day of the market, the blueberry pies went into the oven, where they bubbled through the lattice-topped crust and filled the bakery with the unmistakable smell of summer.  Blueberry corn muffins puffed and browned in another oven, while on a different rack, the shortbread shell of blueberry hamantashen formed a caramelized crust around the blueberry filling.  Fresh blueberries simmered with lemon juice and zest in a pot on the stove, soon to become tart blueberry lemonade.  While those goodies baked and cooked, Brittany stirred a floury cobbler dough in a stainless steel bowl until it came together in a sticky mass.  She then scooped the topping over a blueberry cobbler filing in little metal cups, our first of the year.  (Jill and I couldn’t help ourselves and put one cobbler aside for a late evening treat for the two of us.)  Two tarts were to be going to the market as well, little blueberry crumb tarts and blueberry almond tarts, both cooling silently on a rack near the oven, waiting to be boxed up and shipped out.  The kitchen was a veritable blueberry factory.

Within a few hours of the blueberry madness, everything was gone, off to Hammonton to be bought and consumed, taken home to various dinner and breakfast tables around south Jersey and enjoyed by many.  Such a cool thought, the knowledge that the food and drink that was created by our team goes out into the world to bring a smile to the faces of those who eat them.

For dinner that night, I still had blueberries on the brain.  We were still at the bakery, a late night ahead of us, and five cooks (including myself) to feed.  What I hadn’t had in a long time was good old-fashioned blueberry pancakes, so the urge to have a breakfast dinner came on strong.  I went online and found a simple enough recipe, and so I got to work making dinner.  I added a touch of lemon zest to the recipe, and scaled out the remaining ingredients.  The eggs separated with ease, and I whipped the whites into a stiff, frothy mix.  The wet ingredients went into the dry, and then the whites were folded in to give the batter a light fluffy consistency.  Lastly, fresh picked blueberries were folded in.

One of the new pieces of equipment we got was a nice flattop griddle, and I had already heated it up and loaded the surface with diced potatoes, breakfast sausage from Serra Sausage, and strips of bacon.  After the meats came off the heat, the pancakes went on.  Silver dollar sized pools of batter quickly browned and bubbled and I flipped them over to cook on the other side. I quickly cooked some eggs to finish the meal, and toasted some bread.  Maple syrup and butter for the pancakes, katsup for the potatoes.  The pancakes were so good, and the warm blueberries literally bursted when they went into my mouth.  Blueberries really do make pancakes amazing, and I’m going to have to cook them again sometime soon.  And if you haven’t cooked blueberry pancakes, or anything with fresh Jersey blueberries, I suggest you do so soon.  With blueberries, the possibilities, much like the deliciousness, is endless!

Greenwich Fire Hall

The events that are an annual tradition are the best, because they’re looked forward to all year long, and a shining example of this is the annual ‘Asparagus and Egg Breakfast’ at the Greenwich Fire Hall.

Two foodie friends of ours live in Greenwich, so they knew how much Jill and I would appreciate the meal.  I had wanted to attend for the past few years, because I’d heard so much about it, but scheduling conflicts had prevented me from doing so.  This year, Misty sent me an e-mail invitation many weeks before the event, so I eagerly wrote it in my calendar.  Jill and I invited my mother and sister along, so last Sunday we got into the car and made our way over to the historic township of Greenwich.

The drive there was beautiful in the late spring morning.  Along the way, we passed many fields of newly planted vegetables, the rolling fields of peach trees at Sunny Slope Farm outside of Bridgeton, and progressively marshier lands as we approached the small township of Greenwich.  We weren’t exactly sure where the Fire Company was located in town, but we were confidant that we’d find it when we entered Greenwich.

Our prediction turned out to be quite true.  As we crossed a small bridge and looked over the Cohansey River to our left, Greenwich came into view and there were cars parked all along the side of the road.  Satiated people walked slowly down the street, away from where the fire hall must have been, while hungry-looking people walked in the opposite direction.  They were our homing pigeons, and we followed them to where the food was.

The fire hall was a cute older structure (much of the town would fall under this description), and there were dozens of people outside.  Most were waiting in a rather long line on the left side of the building, with the line snaking into a doorway.

A dining hall full!

In the middle of the structure, the doors that normally hid the fire engines were open and the fire hall itself was filled with tables and chairs, where hungry patrons were eating and talking.  In front of the fire hall, community notices were being passed out for everything from FEMA notices regarding the recent flooding to info on registering for dog tags.  Some folks also were selling plants and historical booklets about the town, and the event even had it’s own branded shirts, coffee mugs, and other merchandise all advertising the ‘Asparagus and Egg Breakfast.’

The four of us got in line (where we saw quite a few Vinelanders) and waited as it snaked up the stairs and into the hall on the second floor where many people were eating and the food was being served.

Stephen being served by Misty and Charles Reinhart

Our bellies rumbled as folks walked by us down the stairs, plates loaded with food and assuring us that it was well worth the wait.  Before long, we reached the buffet where our friends Misty and Charles were fortuitously serving at the front of the buffet.  Misty said that this was the busiest they had ever been (serving a total of 885 people!), and the kitchen was definitely busting out some serious amounts of food.  Our hello to our friends was brief though, as they had many more people to serve.

We helped ourselves to eggs and potatoes, asparagus with hollandaise sauce, ham and sausage, Italian bread, and a ridiculous amount of home-baked muffins and cornbread.  Coffee and orange juice was served too, and at $10, was quite a deal.  We made our way downstairs, where there were less people eating and we could enjoy the open air.

The food was nice and we enjoyed our breakfast tremendously.  And at these types of events, the community fundraiser, it’s always good to know that the money is going towards a good cause.  But not only is it just a simple fundraiser, it’s a time for friends and family to reconnect over an annual small-town tradition.

We noticed a group of about eight seniors sitting at the table next to us attempting to get a group picture.

McKenzie and Tracey Wilson (aka Sis and Mom) enjoy breakfast

While Jill volunteered to take a few photos for them, my mother and I hypothesized that they’d been gathering here longer than both of us had been alive.  That’s what these events are about, strengthening and reinforcing the bonds of a community… the food is just an excuse, but at the annual ‘Asparagus and Egg Breakfast,’ it’s a darn tasty excuse nonetheless.

Jill and I owed her a dinner in the city anyway, since our original plans happened to coincide with the last major snowstorm we had in February.  So we made plans to go to Philly to walk around old city a bit, check out some restaurant equipment places, find a bakery or two to nosh on some goodies, get dinner, and of course to wander into The Franklin Fountain for some ice cream.

Franklin Fountain

We drove into the city across the Ben Franklin Bridge and turned onto the Eighth Street exit.  A quick left took us onto Market Street and down to Second, where we found a parking spot.  We got out and walked down almost to the end of Market Street, and there at 116 Market Street was The Franklin Fountain.  I opened the door, and we walked inside.

A gentleman wearing a white apron, paper hat and a sharp looking black bow tie warmly greeted us.  He certainly looked the part of the soda jerk.  Directly in front of us was the ice cream counter, and behind the jerk (so named because of the jerking action the soda handles required back in the day, and not the attitude of the person working the counter) was the menu.  It was quite extensive.

I didn’t really know where to start, nor did my companions, because there were so many delicious flavors to choose from.  Most were classic flavors (vanilla bean, strawberry), but there were some contemporary ones (black raspberry, green tea) and some unusual old flavors (teaberry and hydrox cookie).  While we waited, another man came in and seemed to know what he wanted.  We told him to go ahead, and he proceeded to order an egg cream.  I watched as the jerk mixed up a fresh drink of chocolate syrup, milk and seltzer for this customer, and boy did it look good!  I didn’t even know you could order egg creams anywhere.  I’d heard of them, but never had one before, but my mind was kind of set on ice cream.  Oh, the sorrows of limiting oneself to one indulgence at a time…

Since we didn’t know where to turn, we asked the professional for help.  The jerk told us that he would be happy to give us a sample of any flavor we wished, so we proceeded to try the teaberry (a little too much like Pepto-Bismol in taste and color), the black raspberry (very tasty, but not quite what I was looking for).  The pistachio was next, and it was the real deal.  Not the florescent pistachio ice cream I usually see, but a muted green color with big pieces of real pistachio nuts in it, bursting with the complex pistachio flavor that I adore.  But that still wasn’t quite what I wanted.  I tried the butter pecan next, and I thought I had found a winner until my mother-in-law declared that is what she would be getting!  (It always feels strange to me to get something that someone else has already ordered…).

The jerk scooped her an enormous ball of ice cream and placed it onto a cone, and it looked lovely.  Jill then discovered that there were sundaes that we could order as well, so we decided to split one of these.  Again, there were too many delicious sounding choices, but we settled on the Mt. Vesuvius.

The Mount Vesuvius

It consisted of two scoops of ice cream (we went with rocky road and coconut), topped with hot fudge sauce, brownies pieces, a sprinkling of malt powder and finally, whipped cream.  Totally ridiculous, I know.

It was as good as it sounded.  The ice creams were amazing, thick and creamy… real ice cream, not full of air (overrun, to use the industry lingo).  The coconut was assertive, yet subtle, while the rocky road was chocolaty and I loved the salted almond pieces and swirled-in marshmallow (which, I was informed was made right here in Vineland by Limpert Bros!).  My mother-in-law declared the butter-pecan to be the best she’s ever had, and since I didn’t get a taste, it must have been that good.

A few days later, after returning home, we decided to make our own ice cream.  It being strawberry season, we opted for this seasonal selection.  It was easy enough with our little ice cream maker, but it does involve a decent amount of work.  Next time I’m in Philly, I think I’ll make a trip over to The Franklin Fountain for another diet-bursting treat.  There are so many flavors to choose from, so many other options, perhaps I’ll leave the ice cream making up to the pros and try my hand at something else from their counter.

Be sure to check out their website at www.franklinfounatin.com

Asparagus poking up through the soil

Since it’s asparagus season and I had a big bag full of the slender green vegetables from Walker’s Farm, I knew that asparagus would certainly be on the menu.  I wasn’t sure of which direction to take it though, and was torn between either making asparagus risotto or making a breakfast dinner with asparagus and eggs.  I asked Jill what she preferred, and I was pleased that she went in the breakfast dinner direction.

I had some nice local eggs that one of our guests at the bakery had brought us, as well as some challah bread from the bakery.  The challah, since it is enriched with local egg yolks and vegetable oil and is a beatuful shade of saffron, makes, hands down, the best French toast in the world.  That would be a great way to use the extra loaf that I had brought home.  The brown and green eggs that were a gift would make a wonderful scramble.  But what to put in the eggs?

I ventured outside to the modest little plot of land that I call my vegetable garden to see what Mother Nature had in mind for the brown eggs.  Most of the time, she is the best judge of what to eat, and she does a superb time dictating my dietary habits throughout the seasons.  I grabbed a basket and headed outside.

In the garden, I discovered plenty to eat, even though there was still a little chill in the late April air.  The Swiss chard called me over first, its majestic green and yellow leaves standing straight up from the ground, the sunlight glistening through the tender green leaves and exposing the circulatory system that ran throughout the them.  With scissors in hand, I snipped a few handfuls of the plant.

Behind the chard stood onions left over from last year.  The dark green tops faded into a white/purple blend towards the ground, which hid slender fragrant red onions, still very small and shaped more like a scallion that the globes that they’ll become later in the year.

Rhubarb

I gently tugged on several stalks, and the Earth easily released them to me, dirt still stubbornly clinging to the roots.

Of course, I knew that asparagus would be going into the eggs and I do have a few plants that give up some stalks for me every year.

I cut the spears, about a half dozen, that were ready to harvest and placed them in my basket with the onions and chard.  Several parsley plants were at the base of the asparagus row, so I cut a small handful of the tight bunches of herbs.  Fresh parsley is one of my favorite herbs to grow and it tastes infinitely better the dried stuff one can buy at the store.  Fresh parsley adds loads of flavors and gives the dishes it is put into a ‘fresh’ and ‘green’ characteristic, one that I knew would be perfect for my eggs.

Towards the back of the garden, I saw the rhubarb plant that I planted a few years ago.  It is always one of the first plants to grow in the spring, and its enormous leaves beckoned me over.  I did have a quart of fresh strawberries that I got from my organic berry farmer outside of Bridgeton (she gets a jump on the season every year by growing a few rows under tunnels), and I thought that a quick rhubarb/strawberry compote would be the perfect spring topping for the French toast I would soon be making.  My mouth watered at the mere idea!

Back inside, all the veggies and herbs were rinsed and cleaned under cold water.  Jill got to work preparing the French toast, cracking those beautiful eggs into a bowl and adding organic milk and raw sugar until the right custard proportion was achieved.  The challah was sliced, soaked and pan-fried in one of our trusty cast-iron pans.

I started frying some bacon in the cast iron, and soon the kitchen filled with the salty smell of crispy bacon.  On the back of the stove, the halved strawberries went into a pot with the chopped rhubarb, a dab of butter and a spoonful of molasses.  I brought that mixture to a boil, and within a few minutes it became a luscious, complex but oh-so-simple topping for the French toast.

With a little bacon fat in the bottom of another cast-iron pan, I sautéed the onion, and while that cooked through, I chopped up the chard, parsley, and asparagus spears.  They went into the pan and cooked for another minute or two.  Jill had cracked a few eggs into a bowl, added a splash of milk and some salt and pepper, and I poured that over the veggies with a sizzle.  After some loving stirring, the eggs were soft and gorgeous, with yellows and whites, broken up by various sizes and shapes of green permeating the pan.  The eggs went into a bowl, and some goat cheese that I had bought last week joined them on the table.  What a wonderful combination that turned out to be… the tart creamy cheese, combined with the veggies and eggs proved to be a winning combination.

The table was set, juice was poured, and we ate.  I ate my fair share of French toast, the sweet/tart compote making it that much more delectable.  The salty bacon and creamy, fresh eggs filled my belly, as well as my soul.  There’s nothing like the taste of spring in southern New Jersey.  It’s the taste of here and now, the taste of fresh local foods to come… the taste of finally being through the winter that I’ll never forget.

Naturally we were running a few minutes late but the three of us arrived at my mother-in-laws house just as dinner was being finished.  The house smelled wonderful, full of competing, delicious aromas.  The roasting pork chops hit my nose first, then the subtle smell of browning potatoes.  The grassy scent of fresh asparagus followed immediately afterwards, while the sweet smell of cooked apples wafted through the air on the coattails of the savory aromas.

Grandmom slowly settled into her seat at the four-person dinner table set just off of the kitchen in a little nook with windows surrounding it, while my mother-in-law scurried around the kitchen, pulling pans from the oven, peeking under lids, and putting the finishing touches on her mini-masterpiece.  I asked what I could do to help, and it was decided that I would open the wine.

From the fridge, I pulled a bottle of Terra Fossil Pinot Grigio that had been placed in there earlier to chill a bit.  I pulled the cork and brought the cool bottle over to the fridge.  With a few glugs wine was soon in each glass (although just a splash for grandmom).  The food then started to come over to the table from the kitchen; first a bowl of little red skin potatoes, flecked with black peppercorns, shiny salt crystals and fresh rosemary from the garden.  When no one was looking, I grabbed a potato and popped it into my mouth.  It was perfectly cooked, crispy and flavorful on the outside, creamy and buttery on the inside.  The rosemary added a lovely quality to the potato, while the caramelized edges provided a nice rich background.  Turns outgrandmom saw me, but she didn’t tell anyone!

The pork chops found their way onto the table and they looked ridiculously good.  There were two on the plate, plenty for the four of us, because not only were they huge, they were stuffed to the max.  The chops were a golden brown color and glistened in the light of the kitchen.

Asparagus spears appeared on a plate, skinny and a beautiful shade of green, topped with super-fine shavings of Parmesan cheese and black pepper.  Next to the asparagus was a bowl of stewed golden apples, not quite applesauce because chunks of fruit were still clearly visible, but cooked enough to make them soft and luscious.

We all sat down at the table, including my mother-in-law who was finally finished with her preparations.  The glasses were raised and a toast was called, a toast to family and the sharing of meals, and of time spent together in the kitchen and the table.  Crystal was clinked and wine was sipped.

Of course, the pork chops were torn into first.  I tackled the two Flintstonian sized pieces of meat with a sharp knife and large silver spoon to steady them with.  I cut along the bone to get as much of the meat off that I could, and the knife cut cleanly through the flesh.  After de-boning, each chop was cut into half (although as per grandmoms instructions, I cut her half a little smaller and mine a little larger!).  Inside each chop was a delicious looking stuffing that tasted even better than it looked!  The meat was tender and perfectly cooked (good job mom!), and the stuffing was soft and flavorful.  I’m not sure exactly what it consisted of, but it was bread based and it totally knocked my socks off.

The asparagus, freshly picked from Walker’s farm, was cooked al dente and had an explosively fresh flavor.  This is one of the first vegetables of spring, and it always tastes wonderfully of sunshine and chlorophyll to me.  Of course, the potatoes were awesome, and the apples provided a nice foil to the salty taste sensations present at the rest of the meal and added a different texture to the meal as a whole.

The pinot grigio, a white wine also called pinot gris, ended up being a perfect wine for this dinner.  The tart, crisp wine cut through the richness of the stuffed pork, and mellowed the buttery potatoes somewhat.  It proved to be perfectly drinkable with the meal, and drink it we did.

After the plates were cleared and the wine was drunk, we relaxed for a few minutes and talked a bit.  Coffee was offered, but not taken, and Jill brought out dessert.  It was a simple selection of sweest brought from the bakery, four cupcakes, one of each that we offer at the moment, each cut into quarters and laid out on a plate.  Each of us got one quarter of each cupcake, and it was debated as to which was the best.  My wife and mother-in-law loved the carrot with cream cheese icing, while I enjoyed the red velvet with the same icing.  Grandmom seemed partial to the devils food cake with chocolate ganache icing, but the vanilla with buttercream was enjoyed as well.

It as a lovely evening spent with my closest family; a meal and drink shared along with conversation and the comfort of being together.  Cheers.

In addition to the staples of any urban market, there is a decent selection of foods used to prepare comida Mexicana.  Past the front counter that has Latino CD’s, calling cards, sodas, and other knick-knacks, three rows split out of the main area.  To the right, there is a plethora of dried chilies… some in big opaque white plastic bins, some in clear plastic jars, some in bags.  Most are marked with the Spanish name of the chile, which makes since because I don’t think there is an equivalent word in English for ‘chipotle’ or ‘poblano;’ these are just the names of the chilies.  Most I didn’t recognize, but it was easy enough to take a peek and, more importantly, a big whiff.  The gentleman that owns the store has advised me in the past of how to use some of the chilies and has also been happy to inform me of the relative spiciness of each chile.

The chipotle, a smoke-dried jalapeño pepper, is my favorite and they are made in an interesting manner.  At the end of the peppers growing cycle, the ultra-ripe red jalapeños are selected to be made into chipotle.  They are placed onto metal racks and moved into a drying chamber where hot wood smoke is drafted over them.  Over the course of a couple days, the jalapeños are impregnated with the smoke and all of the moisture is removed, thus turning the jalapeño into chipotle.

At La Plaza, the aroma of the smoked peppers filled the air as I placed a handful of them into a plastic bag.  Along the same wall as the chilies, there was a tortilla press (my mother got one about a year ago from La Plaza and was instructed on how to use it… my family enjoys fresh tortillas to this day!).  At the end of the short aisle, there is an unassuming display case that holds fresh peppers, tomatillos (for making salsa verde), limes, and cabbages.  Next to that case is a small table that usually has someone cleaning cactus leaves for Cinco de Mayo, the restaurant next door which they also own.  In front of the case are stacks and stacks of fresh corn tortillas from a tortilla shop in Bridgeton, made from both regular corn and blue corn (which taste the same but look dramatically different.)  While I was there, I picked up a package of tortilla.

Also in the back, there is a fridge with sliding doors that houses the avocados as well as queso fresco (a fresh crumbly cheese), cilantro, plum tomatoes, chorizo sausage, and more goodies.  I grabbed an avocado and walked back to the front of the store, through the middle isle, and past the canned chipotle in adobo sauce, various beans, masa harina, and cornhusks.  After paying and bidding ‘adios’ I headed back to the bakery to make some tacos.

Now my tacos are more Mexican than American, since I use the soft corn tortillas and not the crunchy shells, but I do put my own spin on them.  The first task was to get the beans and rice cooking.  I chopped up an onion and a few cloves of garlic and threw them into a pan with hot oil.  One of the chipotles went in as well, which would provide a nice background of spice and smokiness.  It really does make a lovely addition to the rice and beans.  After the onion and garlic softened, I dropped and spoonful of tomato paste into the bottom of the pan and stirred it in along with a bit of cumin, paprika, and salt and pepper.  After a minute or so, a cup of brown rice, two cups of water and a can of black beans went into the pot.  While that simmered, I prepared the tortillas.  They needed to be cooked before eating, and the best way (I learned this from the Mexican line cooks in San Francisco) is to cook them right on the fire of the stovetop.  I turned the burners onto medium, and peeled back the first few tortillas, which are about six inches in diameter.  I placed them directly on the flames, and in a few seconds they began to puff and brown.  I quickly flipped them and toasted the other side.  They only took maybe 30 seconds each, and after toasting, they went into a bowl that I covered with a cloth.  They continued to steam and soften as I prepared the remaining sides.

Everyone can doctor their tacos up however they choose, which is the fun part about them.  On the family table, I laid out a spread of shredded pepper jack cheese, dressed shredded cabbage, organic yogurt (which is more nutritious then sour cream), hot sauce, and lettuce leaves.  The tortillas were unmasked and the rich aroma of toasted corn tortillas floated into the air.  The beans and rice were then uncovered, and savory, smoky, and spicy scents wafted into the air.

We’re lucky to have such a selection of Mexican foods so close at hand.  I always head to La Plaza when I need some Mexican groceries, and I certainly head there to pick up my avocados.  And even though their English isn’t great, the folks that own it always have a smile on their faces and always make me feel welcome, and that’s all the communication I need.

The busy kitchen

As time ticked away, all the culinary competitors started getting a little more focused.  I was impressed with how intense, yet relaxed everyone was.  Aside from a few oil splatters and grabbing of hot pans, no one injured themselves.  No fingers were cut, no one tripped over another, and tempers were not as heated as the kitchen itself.  In fact, I saw impressive displays of teamwork.  Nick politely (but firmly) asked Austin if he could borrow the salt off of his station (of course! was the reply).  Barbara noticed Ali was getting a little stressed and advised her to take a few deep breaths.  Breathe in, breath out.  Smile.  Relax for a second, regroup and you’ll get through it.

It was awesome advice.

Alex and Barbara had taken up residence on the other side of the kitchen, since the burners were full and the kitchen was crowded.  I wandered over to that side to see what was up, and both were calmly going back and forth debating on how to finish their respective dishes.  It was interesting to speak with the students as they worked, to talk with them as they figured out how to season this or that, and most importantly, how to deal with setbacks.

I noticed that Nick was working on his sauce.  Something seemed to be wrong, as he seemed to be adjusting his sauce with a dab of chicken stock, perhaps a pinch of salt.

Stephen and Nick chat

He wasn’t entirely happy with how it had come out, so he was tweaking it to make it just right.  Time was getting short, but he was determined to get it right.

Austin also seemed to be having some problems with his sauce.  Although it tasted great and looked silky smooth, it suddenly broke.  The fat separated out and the solids in the sauce clumped up and fell to the bottom.  Time was running out and everyone was working in overdrive.  The kitchen was abuzz with the clanking of pans as they crowded up on limited space.  The pressure was on.

Although Austin attempted to save his sauce, it was too late.  I advised him to toss it, not ideal in a competition, but I told him that it’s important to know when to cut your losses and move on.  He grabbed an empty shallow pan and threw a thick pat of butter in.  It sizzled at the edges and was quickly consumed in a flurry of bubbles.  A few spoonfuls of flour were stirred in, and a quick roux was made.  Several ladles of hot chicken stock were then poured in, and the sauce was brought up to a boil where it quickly thickened into a sauce-like consistency.  A splash of lemon juice, and a seasoning of salt and pepper completed this ultra-fast sauce.

At about this time, everyone was plating up.  Nick was done first, with an attractive looking plate of chicken with vinaigrette sauce (it came out great!) and golden brown potatoes.

Barbara cleaning her workstation

Barbara had also finished her dish.  The herbed rice stuffed chicken breasts were accompanied by green beans that were interspersed with vibrant red strips of bell pepper and crispy bacon.  Lenin finished up his tasty dish of ham and cheese stuffed chicken breasts served over perfectly cooked rice.  Alex’s wonderfully cooked chicken was served on top of ‘al dente’ asparagus and was attractively served with a nod to the fact that one eats first with their eyes.  And although Austin was a little late because of his sauce issue, we were impressed with the juicy stuffed chicken and crispy roasted potato wedges.

It was done.  The intense, but friendly competition was over and everyone seemed to have breathed a collective sigh of relief.  The bakers were also done, and they managed an impressive spread of shortbread cookies, muffins, and a decorated cake.  Everyone performed wonderfully, and I was impressed with the professionalism and attitude of every single person that competed.

Now it was time for us judges to tally up our scores.  We retreated to a back room and started crunching the numbers.  After observing and tasting all the dishes, we assigned numbers to each component of the competition and then added them up.  The results were surprisingly close and we handed them to Chef Jeff.

Alex finishing up his plate

Back out in the kitchen, a crowd had assembled to see the results.  The students looked on nervously, and were given an added level of tension by Chef Jeff who dragged out sharing the results out of patronly pleasure.  It was announced that the top three contestants would win some awesome knives from Just Knives 101 in Williamstown, who very generously donated the prizes. (I’m going to admit a pang of jealously here, because the knives were pretty sweet!)

Third place went to Austin, whose tender chicken and tenacity in finishing even when faced with a major problem right before time expired impressed us.  Second place went to Barbara, whose balanced, delicious dish and positive attitude scored her points with the judges.  Finally, Chef Jeff announced the winner… Alex, who won first place for his clean workstation, tasty preparations, composure under stress, and tight presentation.

It was a great test for the students, and I hope they learned a lot.  I know I did.  I was impressed with everyone at the CCTEC center.  I look forward to the next time I can go, perhaps to judge another competition and to help the next generation of culinary artists achieve greatness.

The crew

When I was in high school, I attended a magnet program (also called vo-tec) in the culinary arts field.  It was a wonderful opportunity for me, as it gave me my first taste of a career in the culinary arts.  I learned basic kitchen skills there, and one of the best parts of that program was taking part in culinary competitions.  In my junior year, my team won a regional competition, then state, and from there we went to the national competition in Boston.  It was great fun and a wonderful learning experience, but I remember being terrified at the guest chef judges who would come during practice runs to critique us.

Well, last week, Jill and I had the opportunity to terrify the next generation of culinary arts students… we helped judge a cooking competition at the Cumberland County Technical Education Center (CCTEC) in Rosenhayn.

We met the instructor, Chef Jeff, about a year ago when he came into the bakery, but we hadn’t been out to visit him at the school yet.  The opportunity arose when CCTEC hosted an open house for all of its programs, and so (after a snow delay of a week), Jill and I headed out to visit the campus, meet Chef Jeff, and help his students with their practice run.

The busy kitchen!

We got there a little late, and walked into the craziness of a busy kitchen.  Chef Jeff gave us a quick tour and introductions, while Gina (Chef Jeff’s assistant) got us our scorecards and gave us the run down on who was cooking and how the competition was structured.

Jill and I jumped right in.  Barbara was at the first station.  She was an older woman, older than I expected since I assumed that the program was for high school students, but there she was confidently working on her dish.  Her station was clean and organized, and she seemed to be relaxed and having fun.

Alex, who was using a small copper tube to cut baby red potatoes into unusual shapes, occupied the next station.  I asked what he was doing, and he told me that he was cutting them to look like mushrooms (which I then saw more clearly), since he was not satisfied cutting them into mere wedges.  I inquired about what he would do with the scraps were it not a competition, and he correctly answered that they would likely become mashed potatoes or something of the like.  I was pleased to hear that they wouldn’t be ending up in the garbage.

Next up was Austin, who was cutting chicken breasts open so that he could stuff them with prosciutto and provolone.

Austin seasons his potatoes

He seemed cool and collected, and was having fun.  His station was a little messy, but it didn’t seem to faze him as he stuffed and tied his chicken breasts with the confidence of a skilled cook.

Lenin was next up on the line, and he was making a similar dish of rolled and stuffed chicken breasts.  His though, were to be stuffed with the American standard of ham and cheese, which he was chopping and placing to the side of his cutting board.  This guy was really getting into a groove, having a good time and looking surprisingly relaxed.

Last up was Nick, who seemed to be the most focused of the bunch.  He was moving swiftly and deliberately through the kitchen, grabbing various ingredients and tasting different components of his dish.  He seemed a little more nervous, but considering all the action that was going on, I didn’t blame him… I remember what it was like to be in his shoes!

And action there was.  Picture this.  Not only were there five cooks preparing a meal that had at least four components each in one kitchen, there were also two bakers competing right next to them, icing cakes and rolling cookie dough.  In front of the line of tables they were working on, there was another team of bakers decorating a wedding cake (which, by the way, was beautiful!).

Chef Jeffery Knerr demonstrates ice carving

On the other side of the kitchen, behind the competition area, there were two students working on ice carvings, complete with chainsaws, electric sanders, chisels, flying ice and lots of noise.  And remember that it was also open house, which meant that several thousand people were scoping the place out, filing through, taking pictures, and staring at the culinary competitors.  To their credit, all the students where doing a commendable job staying cool.

After familiarizing myself with the competitors and the kitchen, I got to work scoring.  I starting poking my nose around, asking questions, offering assistance where needed and suggestions where warranted… little did I know that the next two hours would hold triumphs and tribulations, excellent displays of teamwork, and some really tasty food.

Join me for my next column to see who cooked what and for the results of the culinary competition!